Otele

The Samoan Tsunami Victims Memorial outside Apia.

Returning to Lalomanu in October 2010 was difficult. That’s an understatement, of course. Whichever words I might choose to describe the many different emotions in the many different places in Samoa a year after the tsunami and losing Clea will be meaningful to me, but I doubt they could be meaningful enough so that you, the reader, could actually understand them.

There were of course many instants full of pain, there were sorrowful moments; there were bizarre circumstances and truly uncomfortable situations. Yet there were also encounters that gave me hope that humankind is not as foolishly hopeless as I often rate it.

One of those moments took place when we stepped back into the Taufua resort on Lalomanu beach, rebuilt twelve months after the catastrophe of the early morning of 29 September 2009. I felt very uncertain about going back to that place; I had strange, mixed emotions, the fear of reliving the horror together with the need to revisit the place where so many people perished.

It was mid-morning and we had parked the rental car. We walked across the road; I could see a few tourists on the beach, near the new fales. Everything seemed almost normal, as it was on 28 September 2009. Inside the restaurant, a few more tourists were seated and gazed at the idyllic blue of the beautiful Southern Pacific.

I had taken a few steps inside the restaurant, uncertain about where to go, what to do. My mind was racing with contradictory messages: ‘Get the hell out of here!’, or ‘What will these people say when they see us? Will they recognise us?’. I hesitated.

Then my eyes met another pair of eyes and there was an invisible spark of recognition. I saw how one of the waiters at the resort dropped whatever it was he was doing and came straight towards us, his arms wide open and a sorrowful smile in his face. Otele had recognised us straightaway. He hugged me, I hugged him. I was crying, and I couldn’t give a damn what the few tourists at Taufua may have thought.

Otele Samuelu will probably never get to know this, but if he does, I hope he will appreciate my humble words of gratitude and recognition. That brief moment must have been one of the most heartening, enriching moments I have had in my lifetime. The fact that he recognised us and instantly dropped everything and came to embrace us speaks volumes about the kind of person he is.

What you, my patient reader, may not know is that Otele Samuelu is a true hero. But not the sport-type the media go on about. No. Otele Samuelu is a very humble sort of guy. Otele risked his life to try and save as many people as possible just before the tsunami struck and then jumped into the water to rescue the injured and the dead.

That day in October 2010 Otele told us he had been desperately knocking on the door of our fale, in the belief that we might still have been inside, asleep. Otele saved a New Zealand girl who was badly injured and who would have certainly died had he not acted so decisively. There were many other heroes in Samoa that day, but what I feel for Otele is special.

In his basic English, Otele explained how he still remembered our girl, our Clea, from the night before. He remembered Clea because she refused to shake his hand and frowned at him – how unusual of Clea!. He also remembered Alfie. He remembered it all. That night of 28 September he was serving dinner to the groups of papala’agi who, like us, were enjoying a wonderful, beautiful spot on the island of Upolu. There were many bottles of cold Vailima, some wine, cold soft drinks, cold water and delicious dishes on the tables. It was very noisy, but the atmosphere was one of friendliness, of camaraderie, of companionship. Hosts and guests were enjoying life, food, the ocean breeze, that magnificent view of an ocean that the next morning was to surge out into the land, a black ruthless monster of water that nothing but the hillside could stop.

I will always think of Otele as my friend. Even if I never see him again, I will always carry with me the memory of his hug that day in October 2010. I will always acknowledge that initially I was only able to respond to his hug with my tears, and I am not embarrassed to acknowledge that, not one bit.

Otele knows.

Alfie

His name was Alfie, and he was just two years old. He had come to the Taufua Beach Resort in Lalomanu with his parents, both migrants from England and residents in New Zealand at the time. The night of 28 September 2009 at the Taufua Beach Resort restaurant, Alfie wanted to sit near other children; he asked to be sat next to our three children. Now I remember looking at him briefly and smiling at him sympathetically when it was not possible to make room at our end of the table. Everyone at the table was having a good time: communal eating is a Samoan cultural trait, and we were all either enjoying the local beer or other beverages. It is still difficult to comprehend that twelve hours later the whole place would be wiped off and thirteen members of the Taufua family would perish in that very place.

Alfie was his parents’ only child, their most cherished, their life. Alfie was taken away by the water the next morning. Unlike Clea, Alfie was never found. We have returned a few times to Lalomanu since: in October 2010 we went back twice to open the Clea Salavert Library at Lalomanu Primary School, and we took the boys back to a beach for the first time since 29 September 2009. In November 2011 we went back again a few times, to hand over the management of the Library to the Samoan Government, to check the Library out and to attend the Prize-giving Day at the School.

Even though I am now unable to remember his face, what he looked like, I often think of little Alfie. And I also think about his parents, who, on top of being completely destroyed with the loss of their only child, were left with no body to bury. With nothing at all. I often wonder how they are faring in this parallel, interminable journey of pain of theirs. For a while, Trudie kept in touch with Alfie’s mum. We know they went back to the UK and were living in Spain for a few months. Details were sketchy, scarce. Communication then ceased.

In October 2010 the four of us took the walk we could not finish a year before. We retraced our steps past the fales that were slowly being rebuilt on Lalomanu beach. A reunion then occurred: the man who helped me get my son out of the water recognised us. He then led us to the spot where Clea was found, by a huge tree trunk that eventually died because of the saltwater. Faleaga and his wife Masela recognised us from that morning. Faleaga grabbed his machete and cleared the way towards the place where the tsunami had dragged Clea.

It was hard to believe that so much vegetation had grown in just twelve months. The whole area between the seashore and the hillside had been inundated by seawater; needless to say, it eventually killed almost every plant on it. Samoans have their own words for a tsunami, Galu afi: the wave of fire.

That day we learned that their own little baby, Frazer, aged 2 months, had also been found dead right there, very close to where Clea was found on 30 September. He was ripped off his mum’s arms by the water. Faleaga and Masela had another daughter, Meri, whom he was able to take up the hillside seconds before the tsunami hit. It makes me glad to know Meri has a doll she can play with. We bought it for her in Apia, as an early Christmas present.

I sometimes wonder what sort of response Alfie’s parents got from the people who should have been there to support them. I wonder if, after the initial condolences and the worn phrases, they found themselves suddenly facing some unwritten cowardly code of silence, too.

I wish to say that Alfie deserves to be remembered, even by those who never met him, who never heard his voice or saw his smile. I feel I was fortunate to meet him, and I will never forget he had a life. Too short a life. I will never forget Alfie. I will never forget Frazer. Why would I forget. How could I forget.